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An AC system retrofit converts an older vehicle's air conditioning to run on a refrigerant that is easier to get than the one it was built for. Route 66 Auto Repair in Upland looks at your system first and tells you honestly whether a retrofit makes sense or whether repairing it as original is the better path. The written estimate lists every part the conversion needs.
Is a retrofit the right call for your car?
Retrofits mostly come up on vehicles built decades ago. The refrigerant those systems were designed for is scarce and costly, so owners ask whether to convert. The honest answer depends on the car. A converted system often cools a little less than it did originally, and that shows up most at idle on a hot Inland Empire afternoon. A bigger or more efficient condenser and a strong fan help close that gap.
If the system is in good shape and you want it original, repairing it as designed may still be possible. We explain both paths and what each costs over time.
What changes in a retrofit?
- Old refrigerant recovered and old oil drained where it can be reached
- New drier or accumulator matched to the new refrigerant
- Service port adapters and a label under the hood showing what the system now holds
- Seals replaced with compatible O-rings
- Hoses, condenser or pressure switch upgraded where the old ones will not do the job
Our retrofit process
Step 1: Inspect and test
We check the compressor, hoses, condenser and any leaks, since converting a failing system wastes money.
Step 2: Plan in writing
The estimate lists required and optional parts and the cooling you can expect.
Step 3: Convert
The old charge is recovered, parts are replaced, oil is set to spec, and adapters and a label are installed.
Step 4: Vacuum, charge and test
A vacuum hold, a charge by weight and a vent temperature test at idle close the job.
What's included in an AC system retrofit
Included on the work order
- 01Pre-retrofit system inspection and leak check
- 02Old refrigerant recovery
- 03Drier or accumulator and compatible seals
- 04Service port adapters and conversion label
- 05Oil set to the compressor's needs
- 06Vacuum hold, charge by weight and cooling test
What must be fixed first and what can wait?
Need now: call
- Leaks, which must be repaired before any conversion
- A worn compressor that would fail soon after the retrofit
Need later: book
- Condenser upgrade if idle cooling is acceptable to you
- Cosmetic hose and bracket cleanup
How pricing and timing work
A basic conversion on a sound system is the smaller job. Replacing hoses, a condenser or the compressor adds parts and time, and the estimate shows each. Parts for older vehicles may need to be ordered, so we give you a look window only once they are in hand. If the system leaks, AC system leak detection comes first, and a system full of debris may need an AC system flush. For background on vehicle AC rules, see the EPA vehicle AC page (opens in a new tab).
After a retrofit
Keep the conversion label in place so any future shop knows what is in the system. Run the AC for a few minutes each month, even in winter, to keep seals lubricated. Classic car owners can also ask about radiator repair, since an older cooling system has to handle the extra heat from the condenser.
Frequently asked questions
Will my car cool as well after a retrofit?
Many converted systems cool well enough for daily use, but some lose a little performance, mostly at idle in heat. We tell you what to expect for your vehicle before you decide.
Can I mix the new refrigerant with what is already in there?
No. Mixing refrigerants causes poor cooling and contaminates service equipment. A retrofit starts with full recovery of the old charge.
Do I need a new compressor for a retrofit?
Not always. A compressor that pumps well and does not leak can often stay. A worn one tends to fail soon after conversion, so we test it first and show both choices on the estimate.