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A ball joint inspection at Route 66 Auto Repair in Upland checks the pivot points that let your front wheels steer and move up and down. A worn ball joint can knock, wander and, if ignored, separate. We take the load off each joint the way its design requires, measure movement, inspect the boots, and record everything in writing with photos of any joint marked for replacement.
When to book a ball joint inspection
- A knock or clunk from the front over bumps or dips
- Steering that wanders or feels vague at freeway speed
- Uneven wear on the inner or outer edge of a front tire
- A creak when turning the wheel with the car parked
- Grease flung around the inside of a wheel
How do we test a ball joint correctly?
Ball joints are either load-carrying or follower joints, depending on the suspension design. A load-carrying joint holds the weight of the car, so its wear hides unless that weight is removed. We lift the vehicle at the point the design calls for, so the joint we are testing is unloaded. Then we pry the wheel up and down and watch the joint, not the wheel.
Some joints have a wear indicator on the housing, and some manufacturers publish an allowable movement. Where that spec exists, we measure with a dial indicator and write the reading down. We also check the boot for splits and the stud for looseness in the knuckle.
What goes on the ball joint report?
- Upper and lower joints checked on each side
- Measured movement, and the spec when one is published
- Wear indicator position on joints that have one
- Boot condition and grease loss
- Photos of joints marked for replacement
Our ball joint inspection steps
Step 1: Road test
We note clunks, wander and creaks.
Step 2: Lift correctly
The vehicle is supported so each joint is unloaded for testing.
Step 3: Measure
Movement is checked by pry bar and, where specs exist, a dial indicator.
Step 4: Report
Readings, photos and the estimate go on paper.
What's included in a ball joint inspection
Included on the work order
- 01Road test for front-end noise
- 02Correct lift point for your suspension design
- 03Upper and lower joint play check
- 04Dial indicator reading where a spec exists
- 05Boot and grease inspection
- 06Written report with photos
Is a worn ball joint need-now?
Need now: call
- Movement beyond the published limit
- A clunking joint or a loose stud
- A wear indicator showing the joint is worn out
Need later: book
- A split boot on a joint that measures tight
- Slight creak with no measurable movement
How pricing and timing work
The inspection fee is stated before testing. Replacement cost depends on whether the joint presses into the control arm or comes as part of the arm, which the written estimate explains. Rust on older vehicles can add time, and if that happens we stop and ask before going further. We arrange the alignment after replacement and road-test the car. AAA members save 10% on parts and labor, up to $75.
Read next
Worn joints lead to ball joint replacement, or to control arm replacement when the joint is built into the arm. Check the recall status of your vehicle on the NHTSA recall lookup (opens in a new tab), since suspension parts are sometimes covered. For clunks that could come from several places, the suspension inspection looks at everything. The tie rod condition inspection covers the steering joints next door.
Frequently asked questions
What happens if a ball joint fails?
The wheel can drop out of position, which usually means a loss of control and a tow. Joints tend to give warning first, through noise and looseness, which is why an inspection is worth doing when you hear a clunk.
Why did another shop say my ball joints were fine?
Testing a load-carrying joint with weight on it can hide wear. We note how the vehicle was lifted and what we measured, so you can compare the two results.
Should I replace upper and lower joints together?
Only if both are worn. We list each joint separately. On some vehicles, the arm and joint come together, which the estimate will show.